Hitchhiking in Vanuatu: Eton Village
15th of September, 2025.
I walk until a church, where I can find shelter from the rain. Yeah, there’s a drizzle. I stay here for a long time. I talk with some of the locals, as I’m waiting in front of a church, and they live in the back of it. The church is closed, of course.
Who is to show up and save me once more? Katy and her husband. It’s so unexpected. They are going to a village called Onesua, where there’s a big university. I tell them about my journey in Pele, and they tell me about having an argument with Mili, and she leaving for Port Vila. Kids. They drop me off just outside Epule, driving me a bit further than their destination just to help me out. And boy, they would be helping me out a lot. What a surprise was it coming on my way…
As I’m still organizing my backpacks properly, a pick up is coming by. I make a sign and they stop. They are from my volunteer work place, to where I’m coming in a few days. Unbelievable! I would get to know them all pretty much later, for now, I sit in the back of the truck with the chefs Maria, Jessica and her boyfriend Kalman. The driver is Sikia, the staff who’s the right hand of the owner, Jacque. There’s also the other Workwayer, Alice, and one more staff sitting the backseat. They are going to Port Vila to do some shopping, and also dropping off a guest to the airport. Anyway, I think this is awesome!
They drop me off at Eton Village.
I ask to some people about talking with the chief. One of the ladies walk with me to one of the office buildings. There I meet not the chief but Counselor John Dean, with whom I start talking and explaining my story and request. He immediately tells me I can come and camp by his house, and soon enough we leave the office and go to his place.
I meet his family members, and they all are very nice. They not only show me where I can pitch my tent but also help me with that. They are so lovely. His granddaughter, Nesta, is staying for a few days only, and she’s with her baby boy, Rojia. She gives me some Simboro for lunch. I also meet Sanita, who’s married to John’s son. She has an adorable and gorgeous baby girl called Keyla. She smiles gorgeously and all the time. A very happy baby indeed. Sanita has two other boys, and they are both lovely kids. Eliane is John’s wife and she’s a pearl.
I take a walk to the nearest beach, from where I will walk until the village. My foot is not good. The blister which turned into a wound it’s not healing. It’s all my fault, I should’ve been more careful. Now I’m barefoot.
There’s a sign saying that you must pay to visit the beach. Instead of turning towards where the sign says, which I can see it will lead to someone’s house / property, I keep on walking straight. I end up in the beach. It used to be something, probably before Covid-19. There are still structures of what used to be huts, benches and chairs, some infrastructure for tourists, which could possibly justify the fee. But not anymore. Everything it’s abandoned.
The beach itself it’s not great as there are loads of rocks and corals. It’s still beautiful, don’t get me wrong, but the weather isn’t great, too windy and not very inviting for a swimming. So it’s a beach that you just come by to walk through.
When I get to the beach, another surprise. There’s a sand football field right in front of it. What? There are many properties which look abandoned, plus the same thing with the structures by the beach which are way gone now. It’s like the whole village stopped in time, somewhere either after Covid-19, or one the cyclones / earthquakes from recent times.
I talk with the lady from the cooperative shop. She’s lovely. I want to talk with some locals but by being lunch time it’s not really possible. I keep on walking towards Eton Beach, which I know you must pay for it, but I want just to take a look at it.
I pass by two areas which seem abandoned and both are very nice. One it’s an old restaurant, with a private beach. And the other is just right by Eton Beach, they are actually connected but as you must pay to visit / use the facilities of Eton Beach, the ticket boot is right in front of it and people working there would be able to see you. This second place it looks like a camping site or a place for events, but also with a beach, so I don’t really get the point of Eton Beach. I would rather just stay in any of the other two spots, which are for free and really great.
I do ask the man at the ticket boot if I can just go in for a photograph and to wash my popo, and he says it’s alright.
Across the road to Eton Beach there’s a small stream, with nice crystal clear waters. Here also it happens a local market once a week, which is curious. Before heading back to my camp place, I pick up a papaya.
I told John I would like to stay for two nights camping here and he’s fine with that.
When I come back, I chat with the girls and I eat my papaya. We have some nice dinner and soon I go to sleep because I’m exhausted.
It rains for a long time at night. Not really a strong rain but a persistent one.
16th of September, 2025.
After a lovely breakfast with bread, fried banana, noodles and coffee, I decide to follow Eliane’s advice and go to the Aid Post to check on my foot. Some women in the village tell me that the lady responsible for the post hasn’t opened it for a long time.
When I get back home, I ask for the help of Nesta’s brother to find some coconut. He doesn’t only find me one, as he helps me to open it and shows me an easier way of taking the flesh out for eating. It’s super yummy! But I want to bring it with me to the next beach I will visit today.
I will make a quick stop in the Blue Lagoon, just for some photos (possibly, because as you need to pay I’m not sure), and then I carry on to another small place called Ekot Beach.
They don’t let me in for free in the Blue Lagoon. Surprise! So I carry on to Ekot. And I’m so glad I did. Well, first of all, if you are using MapsMe and decide to look for the “Secret Beach’ which shows there, don’t waste your time. I tried and could not find it. Plus, Ekot Beach will blow your mind so much, that you will not think about any other beach after that.
Ekot Beach is the most beautiful beach I’ve been in Vanuatu. Plus, it’s the sandiest one. Most beaches in Vanuatu are full of corals, including the ones in Pele Island, but Ekot it’s absolutely gorgeous, turquoise pristine waters, and only sand. White and clean sand. There’s shade from the trees as well, there’s greenery everywhere. It’s a little paradise, completely underestimated by tourists, as I’m completely alone here, while the Blue Lagoon was quite full of people. It’s that same whole “ship” mentality I talked many times before, when it comes about most tourists nowadays. And the addiction to facilities.
The sad news is that I cannot go for a swim. This incredible, most beautiful beach I’ve been in Vanuatu, and I cannot go for a swim. It’s not only that I’m not prepared for it, it’s also that I have serious suspicious that the sea water of Vanuatu it’s not helping with my wounds. And I would be deadly right about that. I stay here for a while anyway and eat my most delicious coconut flesh, while admiring the fantastic view.
When I come back, I wash some of my clothes and hope that they will dry until tomorrow morning, when I’m leaving.
17th of September, 2025.
After another great breakfast, I get ready to leave but am detained for some time due to a church group who come to pray for the house and us. They do some intense pray for every one of us. Eliane seems very touched by me leaving, and I feel so honoured by that. How sweet!
10 Years Around the World 