Hitchhiking in Malaysia: Pekan

Hitchhiking in Malaysia: Pekan

9th of January, 2025.

Funny things happen when people doubt of the power of the universe. Frankie tells me that I will not make to Pekan today. I tell him I will. Then he says that there will not be anybody going straight to Pekan. I tell him that I don’t mind taking small lifts until I reach Pekan.

The first car to stop for me, only after I’m waiting for a few minutes, is Azizi, and he’s going all the way to Kuantan, which is a big city, only 40 Km for Pekan. Ha! That means we will drive together for about 5 hours!

Azizi is an engineer, who lives in Kuantan, and has seven children. He came here for work. He must stop in several water treatment places, and check some numbers, write them down, and that’s it. In one of them there’s actually quite a nice view, and even an old cable car, for when the roads were still not going all the way up there. The stops itself don’t take long, but all of them together, and the small detours from the main route, most likely delayed us in at least 1.5 hours, so even though we left Brinchang soon after 10.00 a.m., I would arrive in an intersection towards Pekan only near 18.00 hours. We make a quick stop to have lunch. I wish we had taken some photo, Azizi and I, because he has a very interesting and long goatee, going all the way to his chest. Laugh.

A car stops really fast, and a young man going back from his work in Kuantan, also an engineer, is heading to Pekan. Even though his home is a bit outside the town, he drives me there. Unfortunately, I don’t get the best vibe from him, but no harm is done.

Once in Pekan, I must make a decision of where will I look for camping. Before the town, more or less here where I am; near the centre, so tomorrow morning will be easier to go around; or further after town, so my backpack will be on my way towards my hitchhiking spot? Everything would change drastically tomorrow morning anyway, plus, there are plenty of houses with garden near the centre, so it actually doesn’t matter.

As I make a turn and walk hundred metres, I spot a lady in front of her house, and it seems to me that she has a shaved hair. I was wrong, but Nor is a very lovely lady anyway, even with her long hair. I ask if she can speak English, and she says that just a little. When I explain to her about my story, and my request for camping, she says I can stay, but she cannot offer me any food. She seems so nice that I don’t even think about it and say I will stay.

Nor is 63 years old but she looks like 50 tops! She lives alone with 15 cats, all looking gorgeous and healthy! She also has many plants and flowers, plus a rambutan tree right in front of her house. Her home looks small from the facade, but from inside is actually very spacious and big.

We chat a little bit while I am making my camping. As it’s a little after 19.00 hours, I decide to go to town for two reasons: 1) ask for some leftovers food; and 2) to find a place where I can sit and charge my laptop while I write some of my travel journey. I inform Nor and she say its alright.

The first place I ask for leftovers is unsuccessful. On the second one, a coffee shop, at first the staff says they only have fresh food. I then ask to sit for a while and write, to what they say there’s no problem. After a few minutes, the owner of the place, Sudriwan and his wife Aida arrive, and start talking with me. After I tell them everything, Sudriwan offers me a burger and a coffee. I kindly refuse, explaining that I simply want some leftovers. He understands, and I carry on with my writing.

A few minutes pass and Sudriwan comes to talk with me again. This time, he asks for my help. He believes that if I am in a video eating his burger, and drinking his coffee, by posting this video in his Facebook and Instagram, it could help to booster his coffee shop. And he might be right, so I accept to help him and the food.

The burger is actually great, with a great mayonnaise sauce. And the coffee is out of this world! Apart from delicious, it’s steaming hot, which is very difficult to find in Asian countries. The coffee shop is called Kopi Saigon, and it’s a franchise. Sudriwan got it about 18 months ago, and then he added the burgers on his own.

After we make the videos, we sit and talk for a while. They are both very lovely, and they also would like to travel more. I tell Aida a little bit about why they should go travelling when they can (after their three kids are grown ups), and I give her some quick tips. I could stay and talk more with them, but I must go back to Nor’s house, as it’s after 21.00 hours already, and I don’t want to abuse of her hospitality.

With my laptop charged, I write a bit more before going to sleep, so in this way I am not so full of texts to write once I get to my volunteer work. I must keep on doing this from now on, trying not to pile up stories.

Next morning, I get up with the rain, around 7.30 a.m. As I get all my things ready, it starts pouring rain. What a hell? Nor tells me that the rain season here it will last until April, as only in Kedah the dry season has started already. I am shocked! And it seems that in Johor it will be the same.

Nor offers to make us breakfast. She says that can only offer me something simple, like bread and eggs, because she doesn’t really know what we foreigners eat, as I am the first one to be hosted by her. I tell her that bread and eggs is what I’ve been eating for the past 7 weeks! And what a lovely surprise when she brings back some delicious French Toasts for us, with a warm cup of tea. Perfect! After that, she also picks up some rambutam for me, from her tree (red ones), and from her neighbours (yellow ones), and they are both great!

There’s nothing else I can do apart from sit and wait until the rain stops. Loki, I wish I could simply go visiting Pekan and then leaving around noon.

I write a bit more, until my laptop battery is off. Soon after that the rain stops. It’s nearly 12.00 hours. Nor doesn’t recommend me to go and visit the Istana, as she says we can only see from far away. And I am so glad that I listened to her!

I explore a little bit of Pekan around the River Front. It’s a cute little town, although there’s really not much to see. It used to be the Royal Town and capital of Pahang state sometime ago, now being replaced by Kuantan. The River Front is a curious thing. It is actually quite nice, with a huge view of a large river, but it’s not available for the public. A least not for now. And Loki know for how long. I walked there, as one of the “restriction” tapes was teared down, but nobody else does, I believe. It could be something to do with safety matters, as the platforms seem a bit deteriorated, but I guess I will never know for sure.

That’s pretty much all to see (or not) in Pekan: 1) Istana; 2) River Front; 3) walk around the town centre and it’s shops. After that, I take my way towards the river highway (there’s another one in town), where I will hitchhike again.

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