17th of November, 2024.
When I was down in Don Det Island, I made a plan of visiting Luang Prabang and after going to a small region called Nong Khiaw, famous for its gorgeous nature and incredible views. I also would like to visit Van Vieng, but as I had to choose… But then, with the huge delays on getting lifts up here, and with the terrible condition of the roads, I made the hard decision of skipping that and start going towards the Thai boarder as son as possible, in order to not get stuck in Laos and miss my Visa due date, which is on the 19th. My plan is going from Luang Prabang to the closest border with Thailand, which is called Muang Ngeun.
On our way here from Van Vieng, Rebbeca’s family and I were offer another route by Google Maps. We took the most popular route among travellers, the road number 13; Google was suggesting us the road number 4. It looks a bit longer when you compare them both but, apparently, you can complete the journey in the same time, meaning, the road number 4 is in better conditions. I can take it now, on my way to Muang Ngeun. I will not be doing the whole extension of it, only about half way through, but still it will be enough to know if it’s better than the terrible 13, and I can even let Rebbeca know, so they might have a better option to take it on their way back to Vientiane.
I wait for quite a long time outside Luang Prabang. But before that, on my way there, I pass by a few simple food stands, but with a huge variety of food. I decide to ask to the simple and humble people, a little bit of food, just some rice and vegetables, and explain that I cannot pay, so it will mostly be as I was being invited by them to eat with their family, which is very common among Asian people, as they are very happy to share food with their guests. In the first stand I ask, a nice man gives me lots of rice and tries to give me some meat, but I tell him I would rather have the morning glory. He’s probably surprised but give it to me anyway. It’s quite spicy but delicious, and I finish it by the road, while I am still waiting for someone to stop for me.

In my sign it’s written Xayaboury, the biggest town before the border, and in a junction. A young man, from a transport company, stops for me. It takes some time for me to understand that he is just going to the train station, which is even more outside the town, so I come with him to another direct road to Xayaboury.
Over there, it doesn’t take long until Phong and Too stop for me. Phong is from Laos and he would like to travel by motorbike all the way to Barcelona, in Spain; Too is from China but works with a charity program here in Laos, building house for the people in need. They are going to Van Vieng, so they can drop me off on an intersection. We talk using Too’s translator, and they both are surprised with travels and my answers. After sometime, Too invites me to come and join them for a few days in Van Vieng. If I had the time I would definitely come, as my heart fills with joy with the invitation, but unfortunately I cannot, so I have to refuse. We drive the whole time on the road number 4 and it is great! Way better than the number 13. You simply cannot compare! I don’t know about the other half, but until Xayaboury, the conditions are really great!

Again, in that intersection, it doesn’t take long until somebody stop for me. This time I go in the back of the pick-up, joining two other guys already there. It’s not a very long drive, and the views are great too. One of the guys even take a nap on my backpack. Laugh.
The driver drops me off at the bus station, which is great because it right by the road I need to take to the border tomorrow morning. Now it’s night time already, so I must find a family house where they can allow me to camp in their grounds.
I take a random road and walk there. At the first house I ask, by the end of this road, Lasamy and her family welcome me. They can speak a little English but we understand each other. Lasamy lives with her husband and her son in a very spacious house. She is a chef, and she shows me many photos of her creations but also her cooking classes. She always has many students, either coming here to her house for classes, or in town. Everything she makes it looks delicious, and so many cakes too!
We have an amazing dinner in a table outside, which is nice. There are various dishes and everything is super tasty. All made by Lasamy, of course. And I even can have a coffee after! Yummy!

I sleep in the living room, and in the middle of the night I am awake by a very strong rain. I made a terrible mistake of living my boot outside, so they get soaked wet. I was just not expecting any rain.
In the morning, Lassamy prepares me some eggs and toast (with a delicious sliced bread but also a fresh baguette) for breakfast, which is great! And I also have some coffee. She also gives me some instant noodles, a baguette and a tin of sardines for the trip. How sweet!
I leave quite early as I want to make sure to arrive to the border today, even though is not far from here. I walk on my sandals, and I know it will take at least two full days for my boots to dry.
