Hitchhiking in Vietnam: Hue
25th of September, 2024.
A few cars passed by and don’t take me, for my entire surprise. Perhaps they were just not going there…? One guy stops but he’s not going there. Then finally someone going to Hue takes me. He’s a nice guy but unfortunately I don’t remember his name. He drops me off a bit outside the centre because he has a meeting somewhere.
I ask to use the bathroom in a fancy hotel, and I was also planning to ask for wi-fi there, so I can get directions to the centre, but the ladies at the reception were so unfriendly, well at least one of them, that I almost asked them what was the matter. In the other hotel everything is fine, and I get to know how to get to the tourist info.
It’s actually a hotel, and they want to charge me to leave my backpack there for a few hours. And I totally not get it. Every single tourist, even the backpackers, they all have an accommodation, a place to stay, and they can leave their backpacks there, even after check-out. So why people would leave their backpacks here? And there are some around. Anyway, I explain to the owner that I cannot pay and he’s OK with that.
I have some of my food in a park before starting my tour around the citadel. It is sunny and very hot.
I was expecting that most of the citadel, if not all, would be secluded, and you could only go in with a ticket. But that was stupidity, of course, for most of the city is inside the citadel. But what a wonderful surprise! The outside citadel, which is basically surrounded by walls, is an active part of the town, so cars and people pass and walk freely using the bridges, as it is all surrounded by water, like a moat citadel.
I have always liked citadels, so just the fact that I am here is nice. There is a museum, which I was about to check if I could visit for free, but it is closed for some reason. You can see some of the outside buildings from the gate and they are gorgeous, even though they are collapsing. I love it! In the centre of the citadel, there is the Imperial City, and that’s the one you need a ticket to visit. But the outside gates are gorgeous, and you can walk all around for free. There’s also a moat around, and they always provide some nice photographs. There is also a very nice view from the front gate. And if the government of Vietnam, or the city consul of Hue was really keen to look after such an extraordinary ancient town, instead of just charging a ticket for it, they would take care of the surroundings, meaning, moan the grass and cut the bushes, so even nicer photographs could be taken from all around the citadel. Another place which can give you nice photos but most likely is underestimated, are the two towers on both sides of the Flag Tower, and this one I didn’t see much beauty.
Even though my time is short until starts getting dark, as I still have to walk to outside the town to hitchhike, I decide to walk all the way to the Meteorological Tower. All in vain, as it is closed. And I have to do a big loop to go back to where I dropped off The Hulk. Not a problem, as I can see more of Hue on this long walk, but I wish I had more time so I could just take some longer breaks and just sit somewhere to rest my legs.
Walking towards the highway, a man in his motorbike takes me for a few kilometres, which is great. Once there, I decide to walk in the other side of the road, to the further left, otherwise the cars will never see me on the third lane, which is almost always flooded with motorbikes.
A car stops. There is a lady driving and two young girls on the back. Laan is the mother of Bao Ngoc, and the aunt of Phuong Anh. They are only going to Dong Ha, but at this hour, anything is better than nothing.
Bao Ngoc can understand English and even speak a little. She translates everything to her mum, who get really surprised about my story. I think that it is interesting how the cousin don’t give a damn about me or my journey, and I wonder if it is because she cannot understand or speak English. Although Bao Ngoc is not much surprised either, at least she strikes me as a more sweet girl. Well, things get a bit clearer when they show me the website for Phuong Anh’s business, a Facebook page where she sells many different items. She is a business woman, as we agree, so I guess that, for her age, that fact changed her mind and her attitude a bit.
They give me a very delicious dish, even though it is made with shrimps, which I would never guess if they hadn’t told me, because you can’t really taste it. The name is banh bot loc, and it is basically tapioca dumplings, filled with shrimps and other stuff, and then wrapped in banana leaves. They say it is a specialty from Hue, and try to give me the whole bag, but as I had three already, I tell them they should keep the rest for themselves.
Then something which I really cannot understand it happens. Laan has a package to be delivered in Dong Hong, and she’s sending in a big travel bus, as it happens a lot here in Asia. For that reason, she says that I can get in that same bus, and travel for free to Dong Hong. Plus a free dinner will be also included. I don’t get it! But as they keep saying that is for free, I take it. They drop me off at the bus, and Laan explains everything to the driver. I say goodbye and many thanks to Laan and Bao Ngoc, Phuong Anh is in the car, and get on the bus.
It is the first time I get in a travel bus in Vietnam and I am shocked! There are no seats, only bed seats. It’s difficult to explain so just take a look in the photo. It’s quite fancy in general, as you can imagine, but this bus I even more luxurious, as they are only two rolls of bed, in each side of the bus, so they are very spacious. They give you pillows, blankets and a bottle of water, and you can charge your phones too, plus the wi-fi, of course. But you cannot enter the bus with your shoes. They give you a plastic bag where you can put your shoes in, and every time they stop for toilets or for eating, they give you slippers, to accelerate the process of going in and out.
I know I will arrive very late in Dong Hong, but what to do? At least I’m getting there tonight. It would be great if the driver and the “staff” were nicer, at least nicer to me, as they seem to be OK with the Vietnamese passengers. They put me to eat in the table with only men, instead of directed me to the table where other women were sitting. Perhaps they just didn’t know I am a woman…? And when I am about to arrive in “Dong Hong”, they don’t care much for explaining that I am really outside the town, and where I am getting out. It’s quite rude and careless.
I get out in this junction, which seems to be in the middle of nowhere. Again, the few ladies selling drinks in a stand, seem not to care at all about me, not ask if I need help or anything. That’s so the opposite of what I am used to in other countries, like India, for example, or Thailand.
I choose one direction and start walking. A few youth are outside a hair saloon, and a lady is preparing drinks. As they seem able to understand English, and one girl can also speak English, I explain everything to her, and the lady preparing the drinks is actually the owner of the house. After some time, and talking with her husband in the phone, she tells me I can put my tent in her garden. I start making everything, a grandfather who is also living in the house even tells me I could just stay inside the house, which is nice of him but I kindly refuse. All of sudden, when I am almost finishing with my tent, another lady arrives, and she can speak English. She tells me she is also an English teacher, and that her friend, the owner of the house, withdraw her offer of me camping here, because her husband, being an army man, decided it was not OK. Fabulous!
While I am undoing my tent, the teacher makes me a few questions, and then she says I can come and stay with her and her daughter, at her house, and that I don’t need to camp.
Something in Tram’s tone tells me that what she means is that it is obvious to her that I am not a threat of any kind, and it only makes sense that I stay in her house instead of camping in the yard. At the same time, that means that her friend is not cool by not even let me camp in her place. But all that is just implied in her tone, she herself never say a word about that.
Tram reminds me a lot of Kiman: she is an English teacher in a government school, but she gives private English classes in her house after school. She has a spacious house, where she leaves with her cute daughter. As I did with Kiman, I also explain to Tram about Workaway, if she is interested on having volunteers to help her. She has been to to other countries, and has a more open mind than other people in Vietnam, as we talk about it. She is very sociable and independent, and I am so happy that our paths have crossed. Some things are just supposed to be.
She goes out to buy some food for dinner and breakfast, and she buys me some bread and small flavoured milks for the road. How thoughtful! We chat for a while and then I go to have a shower. As it is late, I am about to go to bed when her boyfriend comes over and start making his dinner. He is really into cooking and start to prepare some serious food. I sleep in Tram’s daughter room.
Next morning, I wake up to Tram’s daughter dressed like a princess, and with some make up. She looks gorgeous! It’s a special day at her school. Tram’s makes me some nice eggs with toasts, a very Western breakfast here in Vietnam, and I also have some fruits and yogurt.
The girls must go to school and I must go back to the road, so we all leave quite early, around 7 a.m.
10 Years Around the World 