14th of march, 2023.
Yes, today is today. Laugh. How I ended up in Mumbai, on this most especial day, out of the other 364 possibilities? Don’t ask me. I don’t know. But here I am.
I get out of the train in Bandra, where the address I have in hands leads me. How nervous I am. How silly! I get to the address and surprise! It’s not here. More surprisingly is how the lovely guard from the building tells me how to get to the right address. Happiness again! It is not far from here, so I can walk. I get there in about 10 minutes, but have trouble finding it because there is not an actual sign saying Aamir Khan Productions. Again, with some help, I find it.
At the reception, I talk with a lovely lady, who patiently listen to my story. She then tells me she can keep my letter, and she will pass by to his assistant. Because I don’t have a phone, she gives me his assistant’s e-mail, and suggests that I contact her, just to make sure she has received, read and delivered my letter to AK.
I don’t know exactly what I was expecting to find it here, but I accomplished what I came to do: I delivered a letter. Now it is waiting.
I don’t have a place to stay tonight. Lina’s friend, Sunil, has guests coming over tonight, so he can only host me from tomorrow on. I decide to try in a Gurdwara, because my experience in the Golden Temple was so great, right? Right?
Well, as it happens in many big cities, in Mumbai things are not the same as in Amritsar. The Dadar Gurdwara has two issues: 1) it is quite full due to a police approval exam which is going on, so many girls are staying here tonight; 2) they are asking for 100 Rupees per night. I do what I can to explain my situation and that I cannot pay. Unfortunately, even though they let me stay (after waiting for many hours for an answer), they seem judgmental and unhappy for having me here.
But the people staying were lovely; I was talking with some of the girls who want to entre the police force (well, I was mostly asking why…); and also, some other men helping in the kitchen were very kind. I was also approached by another lovely girl, who very sadly was diagnosed with cancer, and she’s in Mumbai with her family for treatment. She cannot stay in the hospital so they are staying here, in a separated room.
Dinner is great and the same for breakfast, simple but delicious. After filling my bottle with water, I leave towards Sunil’s place.
15th to 17th of March, 2023.
Next day I get to Sunil’s place. A Déjà vu feeling takes place. Just like in Morocco, all those years ago, where, after sleeping one night in the streets of Rabat, I ended up in a real palace in Marrakesh. Sunil doesn’t live in a palace, but his apartment is the second most fancy place I have ever been. Loosing just to the actual palace, in Marrakesh. It has a splendid view, with what can only be described as a glass wall but not a window. Even though is not a massive apartment, it is decorated as belonging to a king. Gorgeous paintings, sculptures and fancy furniture. The room I’m staying, an ensuite, is amazing as well.
Sunil is a very nice, calm and quiet man. He seems to me like someone who simply like to help others, just for the sake of it. As Lina has also told me before. Although an apparent simple and humble person, he strikes me as someone very distinguished, who is used to deal with important matters. I would be proved right soon, when politicians would come over to his place; and Sunil himself would travel to Pune to deal with some politic issues.
I first send an e-mail to Shariva, AK’s assistant. I decide to stay in today, and just have a proper rest. Tomorrow I can do a better and longer tour of Mumbai. I’m staying with Sunil for two nights only, unfortunately, due to his trip to Pune.
I have the best dinner ever! Seriously, one of the most delicious meals I’ve had in my life! All homemade, of course, and just normal Indian food, but it was so delicious, that it blew my mind! It is rice, dhal (made with gee, as I could taste it), chapati (also with gee), vegetable paneer (one of my favourite Indian foods), and a salad made with apples, carrots and potatoes, with a sweet and creamy dressing. Perfection! And for dessert: ice cream. Are you kidding me?
But the best part of my day was actually getting a response from Shariva. She was very kind in her words and told me she would pass the letter to AK and see what she could do in terms of arranging a meeting. “Give me some time” – she says. That’s all I needed: hope.
A few politicians came over for dinner, and Sunil is in a meeting with them all night, so we don’t really have the chance to chat today. Shame. I hope we can catch up tomorrow.
Next morning, after an amazing breakfast, I leave to explore Mumbai. Funny city, Mumbai. I wish I had watched more Indian movies which were shot here before coming, like Dhobi Ghat, The Lunch Box, or Dil Chahta Hai. This always has an impact on me: being in cities where movies were shot.
Anyway, I think I had a completely different idea of what Mumbai would be. It is so funny, you know? Nothing for better or worse, just different. I walk a lot, but I also take the train. There is a large area in South Mumbai, going all the way from the Marine Drive to The Gateway of India, which is filled with historical and gorgeous buildings. For me, they are an attraction themselves, so no need to pay an entrance ticket to visit, for example, Chhatrapati Shivaji Maharaj Vastu Sangrahalaya History Museum; or any of the incredible buildings around, like The University of Mumbai, or High Court of Bombay, just walk around and enjoy the architecture. The same is for a famous train station, Chhatrapati Shivaji Maharaj Terminus: absolutely gorgeous! Don’t forget to take a nice walk alongside the Marine Drive. I have also visited the Mosque Haji Ali Dargah.
I make a decision of going all the way to South India, Kerala, more specifically. I will stay there for about one week or something, trying to catch a lift in a cargo ship to the Maldives. During the time I’m there, perhaps Shariva can come back to me with good news, so I can come back up here again. I was not even thinking about the possibility of getting a ship, and having to leave to the Maldives. Was it that what pushed away an opportunity?
With a great help from Paul (from the wonderful trio I met in Jaisalmer, during the Camel Safari), I found a family to stay in Kerala. Paul’s ex-teacher, Jibby, and his family, would be happy to having me over for a few days. Wonderful!
In the morning of the 17th, all packed, I take a train to a station outside of Mumbai, a ride of over one hour, to catch a direct train to Kerala from there. The second time I would be riding a train without a ticket in India. And this time, for over 24 hours straight. Sometimes I think I should’ve hitchhiked. It would take me some good 7 days, give or take, but at least I would feel better than just taking a train without a ticket. Perhaps because I am already planning on doing that on my way back up North, I decide for the train now.
But everything changes when I am waiting for the train. I am outside Mumbai now, it’s about 10 o’clock in the morning, and my head is working at full speed. What if what Shariva said about “give me sometime”, meant something like 2 or 3 days? What if tomorrow, or the day after, she writes me saying I can come? I would run up North on foot, if I needed, no problem with that. But what if I simply don’t make it? Disturbed by those thoughts, I change my mind completely, and decide to go back to Mumbai. I should hang around for a few more days, and in case I get no answer, then I go South. That’s it.
10 Years Around the World 