Hitchhiking in Uzbekistan: Besharik

19th of December, 2022.

Hitchhiking in Uzbekistan.

At the border everything is fine. I am now always asking for them to put the stamps all together, and it has been working perfectly!

When I start hitchhiking, I am introduced in first hand to the taxis of Uzbekistan! I believe that 80% of the automobiles in Usbekistan are taxis. Another 15% are cars working as doubles. Only 5% remaining as private cars. And they still might charge some people for a lift from time to time. Don’t get me wrong, I am not saying that it is a bad thing per se, I am just giving the data which I believe to be accurate.

They have this small version of Kombi which is the traditional and official taxis of the country. Most of the white sedans are also taxis, followed by the last model, a very short car, with flat back.

I stand by the road and many of all these types of taxis are passing by. I try to explain to them about my hitchhiking plans. At some point, some men and taxi drivers combined, arrange for me to come in a mini Kombi, until where I though it would be the next intersection, and that’s why I accept it.

After a long drive, we arrive to the bus station of a small town. The taxi driver, an elderly man, tell me I should come with him. Basically, together with the other men from the border, they will put me in a bus to Kokand, one of the big cities in Uzbekistan, and only one hour before Besharik. I don’t want to accept, of course, but what am I to do now? Walk away from here? Where to? I know the driver will feel bad and offended, plus the other men who put their hands together to get me to my destination. So, I accept.

You have to understand that I was not asking for this, I was not asking for them to pay for my lift or for their money. I was standing there by the road, doing my own hitchhiking thing, when these good hearted men decided to help. They offered help and they wanted to help, so I accepted it.

I was waiting with some people but mostly with this lovely elderly lady, to whom I was “trusted” by the taxi driver. He gave me the money for the bus and left. The amount is 15000 Uzbek Som, something like 1.10 Euros, and that is to take me to Kokand.

The lady with me is lovely and when the bus arrives she goes in first and save me a seat beside her. She also gives me a delicious candy!

Lots of people get in and travel along with us. It surprises me how there isn’t much open areas on the way, but there is always a village or a town or something.

I have noticed this man on the bus. He behaves so correctly and professionally, that I am led to believe he works in the bus or something, like together with the driver. I don’t know but there is this really good thing about him and his behaviour. When we are about to arrive in Kokand, the elderly lady talks with him, out of the blue, and ask him to help me to get to Besharik. The man is also going there. So, after blowing a kiss to the lovely lady I follow him out of the bus.

He tells me we will catch another bus. I tell him I cannot because I have got no money. He tells me not to worry because he will pay. Again? What should I do? It is a really difficult decision to make, but I decide to follow him.

We get into a Kombi taxi after that. He asks me if I am hungry, and trying to make him not to worry about it, I show him the banana I have got. When I enter the Kombi taxi, I think he is leaving, so I say many times thank you and goodbye. But after a few minutes he comes back with some steaming samsas for me. How unbelievably nice and kind can someone be? I eat two of the 4 samsas and try to offer him some, but he refuses.

When we arrive in Besharik, he gets out of the taxi at certain point and that is the last time I see this super generous, good hearted man. The taxi driver keeps going towards the address I show him. In a few minutes I arrive to Nasiba’s house, my Workaway host in Uzbekistan.

Here I am, again, overwhelmed by the kindness of Uzbek people. And I bet with you that, most of the people on the world, would not guess that about them.

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